Growing & Caring for Snow Queen Pothos (Epipremnum aureum ‘Snow Queen’)

Snow Queen Pothos

Last Updated on April 15, 2022 by Admin

While its name may not ring a bell, the snow queen pothos is plant that’s common in many homes. In large part because of its stunning looks and ease of caring.

This pothos variety is a trailing evergreen vine that grows up to 10 feet long indoors.

As such, it works well when hung from a basked or placed on a high shelf. Similarly, you can grow it on tabletops if you prune regularly.

If you’re lucky enough to own one while it is still young, you’ll noticed that the plant’s leaves changes as it matures. In its juvenile stage, its leaves are more uniform in shape resembling hearts. They’re also whole.

As they get older, the leaves become longer and narrower. They also develop a midline (pinnated). Along with its green and white variegation, the leaves all look different from one another.

Another interesting point about the plant is that it is often interchanged or confused with the marble queen pothos.

In part, this could be because their names are similar. But, it also has to do with some similarities between their leaf variegations. However, if you look closely, you’ll see that the colors are inverted.

That is, the snow queen pothos is more white than green. In contrast, the marble queen pothos’ leaves have more green areas. The white variegations is also more distributed.

Another differences between them is the shade of their white variegations. The snow queens leaves are whiter whereas the white in the marble queen pothos are more cream or slightly beige in color.

Nevertheless, both plants are beautiful. And, they’re both easy to care for as well. If you had to choose, you can’t go wrong with any of them. But, it would be better to add both to your collection.

Snow Queen Pothos Plant Care

Snow Queen Pothos Light

The snow queen pothos does well in bright, indirect light as well as partial shade. I’ve tried both and you get good results with either. Although, I’ve noticed that partial shade does seem to have the edge.

Anywhere between 4 to 6 hours of indirect, filtered, dappled or slightly shaded sunlight works. However, you don not want it keep it somewhere it receives direct sunlight for long periods of time day in and day out.

Too much bright sun for long hours at a time or direct sunlight will cause its leaves to become pale in color. The latter is worse as the leaves will get burned.

On the other hand, you don’t want to keep it in a shaded area where light is restricted. Any place with too low lighting conditions will cause its variegations to fade in color.

You’ll likewise notice that the plant will become leggy. Leggy refers to when the plant becomes thinner and longer or taller that it normally would be. Its leaves will also be distanced farther from one another.

Lack of light will do this to your snow queen pothos because it will reach for the light source. In doing so, it gets longer. And, because of the lack of light, its leaves will be smaller and fewer.

Outdoors, the same concept applies. Keep it away from direct sunlight. And, position it somewhere it has some kind of shade be it from a canopy, trees or cover.


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Snow Queen Pothos Temperature & Humidity

The snow queen pothos needs temperatures to stay between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. This is where it is most comfortable. More importantly, the conditions allow it to thrive.

Ideally, you don’t want afternoon temperature (which is the hottest time of the day) to go over 85 degrees. And, night time temps t stay in the lower range.

While you have a little bit of leeway above and below, you don’t want exceed either too much. Once the temperature goes over 90 degrees the plant will start to struggle.

Similarly, the snow queen pothos can tolerate down to 50 degrees. But, below that, it will start showing signs of stress.

Since the plant isn’t frost hardy, if you keep it outdoors in areas where it snows, the snow queen pothos will die.

Thus, if you live below USDA zone 10, you’ll want to take the plant indoors once the temperature drops around mid fall.

I do know some gardeners who plant their snow queen pothos in the ground. To work around cold winters, then take cuttings before frost comes and grow these cuttings indoors during the winter.

Once, spring arrives, and last frost has passed, they replant the cuttings.

This works. But, it takes some effort. You also have to do it every year.

In addition to temperature, snow queen pothos does best when humidity is kept between 50% and 70%. Although, mind doesn’t have a problem at home here in Southern California.

That said, misting 1 to 2 times a week does make it perk up more. So, you may want to do that especially if the humidity isn’t high in your locale.

But, be careful not to over mist. Misting involves spraying the air and leaves with water. When you do so, you don’t want to get the leaves all wet. This will increase the risk of fungal infections.

Another option it to use a humidifier. This is easier to use since all you need to do it set it and turn it on.


Snow Queen Pothos Watering

The snow queen pothos isn’t a thirsty plant. And, one of the reasons it is a great beginner plant that’s easy to care for it because it can take quite a bit of neglect and abuse.

Such is the case for watering. And, because it is prone to overwatering which can lead to root rot, you’re actually better off on the drier side of things.

I like to let the soil almost dry between waterings. This means when you stick your index finger down 2 inches into the soil, it will feel dry at about that point. If I feel moisture or wetness, I’ll hold back for a few more days then check again before watering.

During the cold months (we don’t have winters here), I let it dry a little bit more than that before watering. This keeps things on the safe side which the plant seems to like.

In any case, if the plant gets dry, don’t worry. As I said, it won’t die on you. Unfortunately, with overwatering that can happen as root rot isn’t always fixable, which is why you want to err on the side of dryness for caution.

That said, it is easy to tell when your snow queen pothos gets dry. It becomes sad looking. You’ll see its leaves and stems droop downwards. The foliage will likewise look dull and less vibrant.

Once this happens, just water it. Within 24 to 48 hours it will perk back up again.

They key here is not to allow it to get too dehydrated. You also don’t want to leave it thirsty for too long or too often.



Soil is another aspect of plant care where the snow queen pothos isn’t very choosy. Here, all you want to do is use high quality, well-draining potting mix. Most good potting soil you’ll find at your local nursery will work. But, always check or ask to make sure.

Since the plant is prone to root rot, you don’t want to get heavy soil or one that retains a lot of moisture which puts its at risk of waterlogging.

Similarly, if you find that the potting soil you have retains too much water, don’t worry. You can still use. That way you don’t waste any money. But, you’ll want to add perlite. Two parts potting soil to one part perlite works well. This is enough to improve drainage.

You can likewise monitor and adjust as needed.

Alternatively, you can use a cactus mix. Potting soil designed for cacti are well draining which makes them perfect for your snow queen pothos as well.



Many gardening gurus will tell you that your pothos plant doesn’t need fertilizer. And, I think they’re probably correct. However, I’ve always added some fertilizer, albeit little to my pothos plants. And, they seem to be happy.

You can test both methods to see if your snow queen pothos is okay without feeding. If it grows as it should, they keep going without plant food.

If you see is start to slow down or produce smaller leaves or have less color, it means you’ll need to add some fertilizer to help it along.

In general, snow queen pothos are light feeders. And, it isn’t all too fussy about what kind of fertilizer your use.

The most important thing here it not to overfeed it. Too much plant food and cause root and leaf burn because they cause fertilizer salt buildup which harms your plant. As such, like water, less is more.

When it comes to options, you can go with either:

  • Balanced houseplant fertilizer
  • Fish fertilizer
  • Seaweed fertilize

All of them work.

Balanced liquid fertilizers are more popular. But, they’re also diluted with water which makes them liquid. The problem here is that you’re paying for the water. Since, the water dilutes the concentration of the fertilizer, it comes out more expensive.

This is why I like to use fish fertilizer for my pothos plants. Word or warning, it smell. Yes, because of the fish. But, the smell goes away when it dries. And, it isn’t diluted. So you get more bang for your buck.

That said, apply fertilizer once a month during its growing season. You don’t need to do so in winter.


Pruning Snow Queen Pothos

Snow queen pothos will grow all the way to 10 feet when kept indoors if you don’t prune it. As such, it is a good idea to trim it back every so often. This allows you to control its size and shape. Also, you’ll want to remove discolored, dying, dead or damaged leaves and vines.

Another reason for pruning your snow queen pothos is when it gets leggy. Since trimming them back promotes new growth it also prevents the plant from getting too long and spindly, which is not a good look.


Snow Queen Pothos Propagation

There are a few ways you can propagate snow queen pothos. The easiest of which is via stem cuttings. Here’s how to propagate snow queen pothos.

  • Choose a healthy stem that’s about 4 to 6 inches long with at least 2 to 3 leaves.
  • Cut the stem about half an inch below a node, which is the point where the stem meets the leaf. Make sure to use a sterile pair of scissors or pruning shears.
  • Once you have the stem cutting, place the end in a jar of water.
  • It will take about a couple of weeks or so for the cutting to root.
  • When the roots are formed, move the cutting to a pot with fresh soil.
  • Water the soil and keep the plant in a warm, humid pace with bright, indirect lighting.


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Transplanting & Repotting

Snow queen pothos like to be a little rootbound. So, you don’t have to immediately repot once it reaches this point. Also, it lets you repot often.

Besides less work, I’ve noticed that my snow queen pothos takes a while to recover after repotting. You’ll notice this as it will take a bit before it begins to start sprouting again.

Some plants tolerate being moved better than others. However, the snow queen pothos isn’t one of them.

That said, once you see its roots coming out of the holes of the pot in search of more soil to grow into, it’s a sign that you need to move it to a larger container.

You only want to go one size up. Remember, the plant is prone to root rot which is caused by sitting in water. If you move it to a much bigger container, there will be a lot of soil relative to the pothos’ roots.

So, when you water, it will end up sitting in water. Likewise, more water means it takes longer for the soil to dry. Together, this increases the risk of moisture problems. Additionally, make sure the container has drainage holes at the bottom.

Besides the container, you also want to get fresh potting soil that drains well. Fresh soil is better than spend potting mix because old soil gets compact over time. Fresh soil is loose, allowing for better drainage. Additionally, it contains nutrients that have been used up in the oil soil.

How to Repot Snow Queen Pothos

  • Carefully remove the plant from its current container. The more rootbound it is, the tighter it will be squeezed into the pot. So be careful. You don’t want to get too rough which increases the shock factor experienced by the plant.
  • Once the plant is out of the pot, inspect the root ball. Check for root rot or any other problems. Also, separate the roots if they’re bunched together.
  • Fill the new container with fresh potting soil about a third of the way.
  • Insert the plant then fill the remaining space with soil to keep the plant upright.
  • Water the plant and return it to its spot.



The snow queen pothos is poisonous when ingested. This affects both humans and animals. Thus, keep the plant away from the reach of young children, dogs and cats.

While its more harmful effects occur when you ingest a lot of it, its toxicity is still enough to cause unpleasant symptoms like mouth irritation, nausea, vomiting and dizziness.



Pests and diseases are not big problems for snow queen pothos. Still, you want to be aware of them in order to prevent them from happening. It also lets you know how to treat them when they do happen.

When it comes to pests, mealybugs, spider mites and thrips are the most common ones that come visit your plant. While they rarely cause full-blown infestations, you still want to deal with those that do chew on your snow queen pothos’ leaves.

The best way to get rid of these insects is to use insecticidal soap. Because it has a lot of foliage, it is easier to spray using it as opposed to wiping them down with the soap and water. Alternatively, you can use neem oil as well to wipe its leaves.

Since you never know when these pests will come, regular inspection is essential. I like to mix this into my foliage cleaning routine since the snow queen pothos’ leaves do collect quite a bit of dust. So, each week I use a damp cloth to clean the leaves.

And, in doing so, I’m able to see in any pests are there or signs of damage they’ve done.



When it comes to disease, the number one culprit is moisture. Your snow queen pothos is prone to root rot and fungal infections.

Root rot happens when you overwater the soil and leave the plant sitting it water for long periods of time on a regular basis. On the other hand leaf problems come from excess moisture when foliage gets wet and doesn’t dry fast enough.

Thus, preventing root rot has to do with adjusting your watering routine. Well draining soil and a pot with drainage holes are key as well.

However, if root rot does strike, you’ll see the plant’s roots turn brown, black and become soft and mushy. Here, you have two options. If the problem is minor and only a small part of the root system is affected, trim off the rotted sections and rpot the plant inf fresh, well-draining soil.

Then, let it be for a few days before beginning to water again. But this time adjust your watering downward. Hopefully, it will recover.

If the rot is excessive or damage is major, you’ll likely need to throw the plant away.

Fungal leaf infections are similar. But this time, its likely because the foliage gets wet and doesn’t dry. This can happen if there isn’t enough air circulation around the plant. Also, it is in a cool, low light area since sunlight helps dry moisture. Because the plant stays in humidity this can be a risk.

Also, if you mist too much or water over the plant, you increase the risk of this happening.

Here, fungicide is the main treatment. You’ll also want to trim off the affected leaves.

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